Do you dream of perfect, full, symmetrical, stylish eyebrows... without lifting a brush in the morning? Welcome to the wonderful world of semi-permanent makeup, where hair is king and the promise of doe-eyed eyes lasts (almost) forever. But what if we took a break from the glitter for a minute and talked about the drawbacks of all these magical techniques with names that sound like a Harry Potter incantation: microblading, microshading, micrograyling, micropowder ?
Spoiler alert: it's not as simple or as perfect as Instagram would have you believe. So sit down, take off your makeup (just for the symbol), and read on before you dive headfirst into the needle.
Microblading: when "natural" rhymes with hassle
They sell you a dream: fine features etched into your skin like natural hair, all with surgical precision. On paper, it's divine. In real life? Not always.
It already hurts. Yes, even with the anesthetic cream. They don't just scratch your skin, they scarify it to insert pigments. A bit like a mini tattoo, except it fades (but not always well).
Next, let's talk about healing : for ten days, you look like a mix between a molting lizard and an abstract work of art. And the real result? It only shows up after 4 to 6 weeks . If you thought you'd come out of there with your dream brows, you're going to be a little disappointed.
The worst part? Pigments can change. Yes, your chocolate brown can end up orange or grayish depending on your skin, your sun, and your cream. And to fix that... good luck.
Microshading: the gentle… but tenacious illusion
This is the softer cousin of microblading. We offer you a powdery, ombré effect, all in finesse. The result can be stunning. But again, it's not without risks.
It's already addictive. You do one touch-up, then two, then you want it a little darker... and you end up with eyebrows that are no longer subtle.
Then, the pigment sometimes migrates into the deeper layers of the skin . The result? Blurred areas, a blurred effect… but not the one you wanted.
And then, even if it's "less aggressive" than microblading, your skin still takes a beating. If you're prone to eczema, redness, or if your skin is thin, take a break. Or a test. Or just a good eyebrow pencil.
Micrograyling: The Not-So-Graceful Trend
This is where we enter a more specialized field. Micrograyling is a bit like a combination of microshading and a more “grayed” effect, very natural, often recommended for light skin or blondes.
But who says gray pigment says... risk of even greater color shift . And what if this gray turns green? What do you do? You cover it up. You cry. You look for a touch-up. In short, you panic.
And once again, the illusion of naturalness comes at a price: regular maintenance. Because yes, even if it's semi-permanent, you have to re-pigment every 8 to 12 months. And your wallet already hates you.
Micropowder: magic powder… or smoke and mirrors?
The softest, trendiest technique, the makeup effect straight out of a beauty filter. In theory.
Except that in reality, micropowder can give a very pronounced effect. And if you don't wear makeup every day? You might find it too much.
Not to mention the fact that some areas take it better than others. The result: uneven eyebrows , a rather unflattering “empty-full” effect.
And what about the “zero pain” promise? Shall we talk about it? Sensitivity varies depending on the skin, but let's be clear: you won't fall asleep during the session.
And what about the skin?
No one tells you your skin changes . With age, the sun, hormones... your skin evolves. And so do your pigments. What was perfect at 30 can become blurred at 35.
You may also develop delayed allergic reactions , even after several sessions. Your skin may not heal well, especially if you are prone to blemishes, keloid scars, or have very sensitive skin.
So, how do you remove it? That's another story. Laser tattoo removal is possible, but it's long, expensive, and painful. Yes, again.
The cost of the dream
Oh, let's talk about price. A session can range from €250 to €800 , depending on the technique, the reputation of the practitioner, the city, the moon...
And alterations? They're never "included for life." Every 6 to 12 months, you have to pay again. If you do the math over 5 years... you could have treated yourself to a trip to Bali or three luxury bags.
What if we just loved our natural eyebrows?
So yes, these techniques can save time, boost your confidence, and change your outlook. But they're not trivial.
Before taking the plunge, ask yourself the right questions:
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Am I ready to live with a semi-permanent result?
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Do I know the risks?
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Am I doing it for myself or to look like an influencer I might follow more in 6 months?
Sometimes a good setting gel, a well-sharpened pencil, and a well-done YouTube tutorial can work wonders. And best of all, they wash off by night.